Sorry !!! I mean't R35, not R39. Double check R35. Check you didn't break the via which connect the bottom and top pads together. In particular on the bottom pin of R35 (near R17).
- Remove all the socketed IC's and and check it it is still the same. - Check the value of R39 with the ohmmeter (1 ohm). It should almost look like a short. - Did you need to remove a component during the build?
Try tapping on components and connectors with a pen to try to locate the defective connection. Resolder all solder joints that look suspicious. Monitor a constant sine signal with your AC voltmeter at points TP1, TP2, TP3, TP4, TP5, TP6 to try locate the stage where the problem occurs.
Check that Q2 (2SK170) is in the correct position A. Can you measure the DC voltage (against 0V) on both sides of R51: near connector (16V) and near C24 (15V) ? Can you measure the DC voltage (against 0V) on both sides of R48: near C23 (8V) and near R41 (1V) ?
Do you also find the release time too fast with the 10mS attack? Check the value and solder joints of R32, C17, C18. If still too fast try increasing R32 to 4.7M. You could also add an additional cap in parallel with R32. It will also slow down the attack time but you can compensate by decreasing R29.
No, that's very unlikely. The microphone is isolated from the preamp circuitry by the input transformer, so the preamp itself cannot damage it. The only parts directly connected to the microphone are the 48 V phantom power (through R1 and R2), the pad relay, and the input transformer. Under normal conditions, none of these should damage the microphone.
You have a broken connection. Check that R47-Right is connected to - R46-R - R45-L - U4-pin2 Check that R47-Left is connected to - D11-L - R48-R - U4-pin6 If one link is missing, repair it with some wire.
and than the signal fades away quite rapidly. Try to follow the signal on TP1, TP4, TP5, TP6. Check what happens between the initial working state and the final faded away state. Also cjheck if something happens with DC.
What I see on Pin 6 of U4: with Gain at 0 and Out at 0: 3,26V. The issue is here. Please report the DC volts (against 0V) on U4 pins 1, 2, 3, 5, 6, 7, also 4 and 11.
but the partslist with C1 on is crossed out Make sure you are using the latest parts list. C1 must be populated. Does the 48 V rail (on the finger connector, pin 15) remain stable when the voltage on the XLR drops? What is the phantom voltage level on each side of R3?
Check the bi-color LED with your DMM in diode test mode. It should light up in one color, then the other when you reverse the test leads. Check that you receive the peak voltage of the input signal on U4 pin5, the same as pin3. Check the DC voltage on U4 pin6. It should be a few millivolts above 0.
Il est normal qu'une valeur de résistance mesurée dans le circuit soit plus petite que sa valeur nominale car elle est très souvent connectée à d'autes résistances qui diminue la valeur mesurée. Vérifiez le bon fonctionnement de P1 (sur TG1) en mesurant la résistance entre la broche centrale et chacune des broches latérales : elle doit varier progressivement de 0 jusqu’à la valeur maximale. Vérifiez que les broches latérales de P1 sont correctement connectées à R5 et R7, pin gauche, respectivement. Vérifiez les valeurs de R5 et R7, à l'aide du code de couleur.
Vérifiez le potentiomètre P1 : 20k entre les pins extrêmes, 0 à 20k entre la pin centrale et les pins extrêmes, en fonction de la rotation. Vérifiez les soudures de P1, R5, R7, C9.
Vérifiez les connexion entre le switch SW2 et le connecteur J1 : - pins 1-2 (à l'avant du switch) vers J1-pin2 - pins 3-4 (au milieu) vers J1-pin1 (pastille carrée). Si une connection est coupée, il faut la réparer avec un petit fil.
All seems to be good when U1 is removed. So the issue must be around U1. Check the value and solder joints of R6, R7, P1, C5. Check with another OPA2134.
You said the device is not working, but you did not specify what the symptoms are?